Elettaria

West Village
33 8th Street, between 5th and 6th Ave
212-677-3833
elettarianyc.com

Elettaria just opened so we walked over to check it out. It's from a chef formerly at Craft Bar and on a block dominated by shoe stores, with size sixteens displayed in window after window. Bigfoot Row. The staff is very welcoming and friendly, and there are plenty of them. This is a well oiled machine and not yet a week old. We expected a little bit less of a production. The space is dimly lit with dark wood and light brick, many odd lamps, sconces, mirrors and hanging art providing a warm, somewhat feminine feel. The kitchen is open and provides a brighter stage on which the kitchen crew creates. There's a long bar for drinking and eating and, by the time we left, it was hopping. The menu book itself is very pretty, with limited offerings, sub-Asian influences, naan bread (somewhat doughy and bland) and Indian spices. Indeed, elettaria refers, botanically, to cardamon. The mackerel we began with was fresh and inventively spiced with many flavors and a caramelized garlic crunch. The lamb sausage with naan and a yogurt raita was good, but could have been more fully grilled. Sag paneer was spinachy good, and wild boar with cumin, orange zest and oniony vermicelli had an edgy taste. An Opaka Raka cocktail at the start tasted of orange and bitters and was quite good.
OVERALL RATING: Big shoes to fill